Opening

Long Count

In the movie “The Jerk,” Steve Martin insisted on “fresh wine.” He’d definitely avoid Ravi Derossi and Drew Brady’s latest venture, where all the wines, in full pours, half-pours and by the bottle, are at least 10 years old. “Wines with age seem out of reach for most people, they have high prices and come on long lists,” Mr. Derossi said. “We’re removing those barriers.” There are also aged and fermented components, like sourdough, vinegar and miso, in most of the dishes, all vegan. Fries come with tempeh “Parmesan,” kimchi garnishes cabbage and king trumpet mushrooms are served with cashew miso and poached kohlrabi. The wine list — 70 labels selected by Mr. Brady — includes reds, whites, oranges and even aged rosés; many of them are from Croatia, Eastern France, Hungary and Georgia, and run $16 to $26 per glass, $100 to $300 a bottle.

155 Avenue B at East 10th Street, 833-328-4588, longcountnyc.com.

Rulin

Noodle Lane in Park Slope, Brooklyn, now has a sibling in Manhattan. The owners, Lane Li and Chris Wang, interpret Cantonese and Sichuan dishes, coming up with shiitake mushroom skewers seared over binchotan charcoal; dan dan noodles with pork belly and Sichuan vegetables; and beef noodle soup done Lanzhou style with hand-pulled noodles — for which that city is famous — made in full view at a counter central to the intimate restaurant. (Opens Thursday)

15 East 13th Street, 212-510-7487, rulinnyc.com.

Settepani on the Meer

The shiny new recreation center and skating rink at the north end of Central Park includes a cafe run by Settepani, the popular Harlem restaurant and Williamsburg bakery. Starting with breakfast items, including croissants and bomboloni, the day’s menu continues with soups like minestrone, salads, maritozzi with various fillings and Roman-style pizzas.

Central Park, 106-51 East Drive, 212-310-6600, daviscenter.centralparknyc.org.

Moon & Back

At this intimate Thai bistro glittering with crystal chandeliers, Chompoo Nitmai and her mother, the chef Sunisa Nitmai, who closed their Pata Café in Queens in August, are again featuring noodles. Here, they serve their pork boat noodle soup as well as pomelo crispy duck salad, snails in herbal curry, tamarind prawns and durian crème brûlée. They also have new partners, the restaurateurs Thana Kigprayoon and his wife, Angsuwan Kigprayoon. Bright colors, cloud motifs, touches of gold leaf and some upholstery with Thai silks from Jim Thompson also give sizzle to the space.

117 West 10th Street, 212-649-4995, moonandbacknyc.com.

Pierogi Boys

Having started in the DeKalb Market Hall in Downtown Brooklyn, Krzysztof Poluchowicz and Andrzej Kinczyk, the “pierogi boys,” have now opened a small restaurant and adjacent market in Ridgewood. These purveyors of traditional Polish dumplings will offer varieties with meat, cheese and potato, and mushroom and sauerkraut fillings, as well as borscht (meat and white), salads, kielbasa, schnitzel, deviled eggs and, at lunch, sandwiches. The market will sell pierogi, frozen and hot, to go.

57-34 Catalpa Avenue (Onderdonk Avenue), Ridgewood, Queens, 718-808-1102, pierogiboys.com.

Branches

Golden Steer at One Fifth Avenue

Old Las Vegas (Golden Steer opened in 1958) meets older New York (One Fifth Avenue went up in 1927) at this first outpost for a steakhouse with a Rat Pack vibe. Nick McMillan and his wife, Amanda Signorelli, the current owners, have installed it in a ground-floor space that has been home to a number of notable restaurants, including One Fifth, where Keith McNally shucked oysters, as recounted in his recent memoir. Glamorous details like gold fringe and tufted banquettes along with Western motifs decorate the rooms where steakhouse specialties are served, and Caesar salad and bananas Foster are finished tableside.

One Fifth Avenue (Eighth Street), 646-846-1487, goldensteer.com.

YONO

Grab some prepared sushi at this new branch of a spot that was established in the Moynihan Train Hall. Sushi choices go from classics, like chirashi rice bowls and nigiri, to more inventive, including shrimp curry rolls. Here, a cafe for matcha, hojicha and pastries has been added. It’s the work of the BondST founders, Jonathan Morr and Marc Spitzer, and Tim Wildin, formerly at Chipotle.

20 Hudson Yards, Level 4, the Shops & Restaurants at Hudson Yards, 10th Avenue and 31st Street, yonosushinyc.com.

Nong Geng Ji

A restaurant group from Hunan that has more than 100 outlets across Asia and Canada has opened this New York branch. Examples of their style of Hunan home cooking include pepper pork stir-fry, chicken stir-fried in tea oil and stir-fried beef and sweet potato rice. The room is decorated with folk touches and ingredient displays.

135-15 37th Avenue (Prince Street), Flushing, Queens, 347- 542-3007, nonggengji.cn.

Looking Ahead

Sunday Supper at ILIS

On Sunday evenings through Feb. 28, Mads Refslund will serve family-style dinners highlighting chicken turning on multiple spits over the hearth. A starter and dessert are included for $65; drinks, tax and gratuity are not.

150 Green Street (Manhattan Avenue), Greenpoint, Brooklyn, 917-274-7154, ilisnyc.com.

SlowFires Dinners

The chef Justin Smillie, who went from Il Buco Alimentari to Upland and now runs a mobile wood-burning oven for catering, will park his gear in the West Village for a couple of generous pop-up dinners. About 10 dishes will be served family-style, including mushroom pizza, toasted beets, chicken roasted in embers, oven potatoes and Basque cheesecake. The pop-up dinners will be on Jan. 30 and 31, at 5 and 7:30 p.m., $239.85 including drinks, taxes and fees; seats are limited.

Heermance Events at 183, 183 Christopher Street (West Street), eventbrite.com.

Shopping

MoMA Mart

Inspired by Pop Art and artists like Ed Ruscha and Claes Oldenburg, some faux-food objects — including pizza clocks, tomato lamps and “food” stools — are on display and for sale ($4 to $430) through March 29 at the MoMA Design Store and online. Many of the items relate to works in the museum’s collection.

MoMA Design Store Midtown, 44 West 53rd Street; MoMA Design Store SoHo, 81 Spring Street (Broadway); store.moma.org.

Follow New York Times Cooking on Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, TikTok and Pinterest. Get regular updates from New York Times Cooking, with recipe suggestions, cooking tips and shopping advice.