Humble fish stew showcases the underappreciated cuisine of Spain’s Balearic islands
In the shadow of an imposing stone bell tower, market stalls fan out by the dozens from the central plaza of Sineu, Mallorca.
Every Wednesday, vendors fill the surrounding streets with produce from the fertile central plain of the Spanish Mediterranean island. Interspersed among the plump tomatoes, leafy chard and bright citrus are more stalls overflowing with handcrafts, textiles, jewelry and more.
The scene plays out much like it has every week since at least the early 1200s. Designated a royal market in 1304, it’s the only remaining market in Spain’s Balearic Islands allowed to sell live rabbits, poultry and farm animals.
Naturally, the produce changes with the season, showcasing products that define a cuisine that’s little known outside the Balearic Islands.
Although the islands are better known for their pristine beaches and sun-drenched cliffs, Jeff Koehler’s new book, “The Spanish Mediterranean Islands Cookbook,” aims to give the food some worthy attention.
“It’s only a 30-minute flight from Barcelona,” said Koehler. “But it’s amazing to see that it has its own culinary culture.”
Mallorca is the biggest of the Mediterranean chain, which also includes Ibiza, Formentera and Menorca, where Koehler, an American, has lived part time for 15 years. Much of the diet is classic Mediterranean, with lots of olive oil, legumes and fresh vegetables.
But Koehler said the islands differ from the rest of the region because they were so isolated. The cuisine developed with few outside influences, with locals relying on heavily on fishing, foraging and preserving to survive the winter.
Restriction led to creativity. As an example, he cited the moment in springtime when fava beans are suddenly everywhere in springtime.
“Then you start thinking of five ways of making fava beans because it’s what’s there now,” he said. “What starts as this necessity of just survival eventually converts into real gastronomic treats.”
Locals may pair favas, or broad beans, with mint, spring onions and sobrassada, a paprika-spiced, uncased pork sausage that’s like a spreadable chorizo. Or they add them to a frittata-like Spanish tortilla, or use them with cuttlefish, bacon and onions.