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It Isn’t Swedish Christmas Without Three Kinds of Herring

It Isn’t Swedish Christmas Without Three Kinds of Herring

The New York Times
2025/12/25
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In addition to running House of Dagmar, the Swedish women’s wear line they founded with their sister Kristina Tjader, 54, 20 years ago, Sofia Wallenstam, 42, and Karin Soderlind, 58, have also become partners in putting on an annual Christmas get-together for their creative circle. Two years ago, it took the form of an outing to see the Royal Swedish Ballet. Last year, they threw a cocktail party at Wallenstam’s apartment on Djurgarden, an island and natural reserve in central Stockholm. This time, the women decided to host a Julbord, a traditional Swedish Christmas feast that combines cold and hot dishes, and whose history harks back to pre-Christian Viking times. (The Christmas ham is thought to be a descendant of the boar sacrificed during the Viking Yule festival.) All three sisters have fond childhood memories of Julbords, some of which they enjoyed at the home of their paternal grandmother, Dagmar. She was a tailor, and the inspiration behind the name of their brand, which recently opened a flagship store in Stockholm.

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One of the home’s fireplaces, with a stocking apiece for Wallenstam, her husband, their two children and their dog, Buster.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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Wallenstam lighting candles in advance of guests’ arrival.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin

The setting for this dinner was once again Wallenstam’s apartment — one of three in a 1905 red-bricked house designed by the Swedish architects Isak Gustaf Clason and Albert Collett — which she shares with her husband and their two children. When guests started arriving, around 6 p.m., the sun had already been down for almost three hours, but lanterns lit the building’s front walkway, and paper stars and Advent candle arches glowed from the unit’s windows. “It’s so dark in Sweden right now,” said Wallenstam, “but Christmas is all about light.” Inside, the apartment was outfitted with taper and pillar candles, and a Nordmann fir strung with white lights.

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Wallenstam, left, and Soderlind reviewing the seating arrangement before dinner.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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Each place setting featured an evergreen sprig embellished with pine cones and orange rounds from the Stockholm florist Bruun set atop a linen napkin made by the Swedish textile company Linneverket.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin

Guests mingled there, listening to jazz renditions of Christmas songs, snacking on thin almond cookies topped with whipped blue cheese and sipping champagne, winter Negronis and glogg, a warm, spiked wine. Meanwhile, Albin Edberg, 31, a Swedish chef and the author of “Svensk Comfort Food” (2025), was in the kitchen, preparing his takes on Swedish classics and faithful reproductions of the sisters’ family recipes, including their grandmother Dagmar’s mustard-dill sauce. After a coursed buffet, the guests broke out first into Swedish snaps songs — Scandinavian drinking songs — and then Christmas standards. The last of them went back into the crisp, dark night just past midnight. “It’s so easy to stay at home and lock yourself in this time of year,” said Wallenstam. “But Christmas, at its best, brings everyone together.”

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Gingerbread cookies from the Stockholm bakery Tössebageriet served as place cards.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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Etched glassware, designed in Sweden in the late 1800s, that belonged to Wallenstam’s husband’s grandparents.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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Clusters of white taper candles illuminated the table, which weighs nearly 800 pounds and fit all 17 diners comfortably.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin

The attendees: Tjader, who’s the founder of the sustainable furniture brand Hyfer Objects, was there, as were 14 others. Among them were the couple behind the textile company Nordic Knots, Liza Laserow, 44, and Fabian Berglund, 43; the writer and podcaster Nadia Kandil, 36; the actresses Evin Ahmad, 35, Nanna Blondell, 39, and Gizem Erdogan, 38; Kina Zeidler, 51, a writer and the founder of Sibbjans, a farm stay on Gotland Island; Saman Amel, 32, who has a tailoring atelier; and the singer Mapei, 42. A number of the guests were wearing House of Dagmar. “I think Dagmar is very Scandinavian, very timeless and very sophisticated,” said Ahmed, who wore its long tailored blazer.

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The sisters kept the guest list small so that the gathering would be intimate enough to foster meaningful conversation.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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The Swedish chef Albin Edberg prepared the ham, a staple of a Julbord’s cold buffet, by first brining it, and then covering it in mustard and breadcrumbs before roasting it with pickled beetroots.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin

The table: “We were brought up to value quality over quantity, and we like things that can last for a long time,” said Tjader. This thinking, which has informed House of Dagmar from the start, was also evident in Wallenstam’s table, a custom piece by the Stockholm studio Louise Liljencrantz Designthat’smade of solid walnut and oxidized steel and weighs nearly 800 pounds. It was covered with a white linen tablecloth and had an evergreen garland running down its center, snaking around clusters of white taper candles. On top of the garland Wallenstam had put oven-dried slices of oranges and grapefruits to complement the abstract, orange-tinted photograph by the contemporary Swedish photographer Blaise Reutersward that anchors the dining space. Each place setting featured an evergreen sprig from the Stockholm florist Bruun, stoneware from the octogenarian Swedish ceramist Birgitta Watz and delicately etched glasses that were wedding gifts to Wallenstam’s husband’s grandparents.

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Toward the end of the meal, the singer Mapei (center) started singing “Sleigh Ride,” which prompted the others to join in.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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Gravlax, or raw salmon cured with salt, sugar and dill, is so named because grav, in Swedish, means burial, the method by which the cured fish used to be preserved.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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The guests sang Swedish snaps songs, which are short, catchy and meant to encourage drinking.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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The meal wouldn’t have been complete without Swedish meatballs.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin

The food: As is customary with a Julbord, the food was presented on a separate table, in this case on the limestone island in the open kitchen. The cold dishes included gravlax (raw salmon cured with salt, sugar and dill) and, with it, the mustard-dill sauce, along with three kinds of herring — mustard, onion and one that was the creation of a close family friend who lives on Asperö island. “Any fewer and it’s not Christmas,” Edberg said. There was also Vortbrod, a sweet and heavily spiced Christmas loaf, served with ham and mustard. “My first sandwich of the season is about when I start to think about turning religious,” said Edberg.

The chef and his team purposely waited until the guests were midway through the first course before pan frying meatballs in brown butter, so that the aroma would get the diners excited about what was to come. Apart from the meatballs: creamed kale with nutmeg, an omelet with white truffles and potato gratin with tinned allspice- and nutmeg-seasoned anchovies. For dessert, in addition to handmade chocolates and marshmallow Santas, there was a selection of cheeses as well as rice pudding, saffron panna cotta and the sisters’ maternal grandmother’s mandelmussor, an almond tart filled with cloudberry jam.

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Fabian Berglund, left, one of the founders of the Swedish textile company Nordic Knots, and Wallenstam, center.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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In a nod to the sisters’ childhood on the west coast of Sweden, where seafood is a staple, the cold spread also included crab claws and oysters.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin

The drinks: Glogg is similar to mulled wine, but contains almonds and raisins, while the winter Negronis — by the local craft distillery Stockholms Branneri — were made of gin, the bittersweet aperitif Rod, Christmas bitters and cherry and black currant juices. During dinner, guests drank beer, wine or Julmust, a soda that tastes like a cross between root beer and Coke. Two flavors of snaps, which in Sweden refers to strong, clear distilled liquors infused with herbs and spices — elderflower and the caraway-inflected O.P. Anderson Aquavit — fueled the snapsvisor, or the evening’s initial bout of singing.

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At Christmastime, saffron is one of the most commonly used spices in Sweden. It appeared during the dessert course via saffron panna cotta garnished with wood sorrel.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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Edberg, left, putting the finishing touches on the mandelmusslor, a traditional Swedish almond pastry filled with cloudberry jam.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin

The music: It was Wallenstam who led the first of the snaps songs. “They’re so silly,” she said, initially hesitating to translate the lyrics, and then revealing them to be something like “the small herring in the ocean likes to drink and loves swimming amongst the mackerel — she drinks snaps whenever she wants.” Many of these ditties, it turns out, revolve around fish, and fish that drink. A highlight of the caroling portion of the night was the group’s rendition of the Swedish folk song “Staffan var en Stalledrang,” for which Ahmad acted as amateur choir director.

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Guests mingling in the living room.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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The dessert buffet also included a selection of cheeses. Vasterbotten is a hard cow’s milk variety made in Sweden’s north.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin

The conversation: Aside from talk of favorite holiday traditions and parenting, much of the conversation was about being an artist. While the specific challenges may differ from one field to another, Wallenstam said, the stages and emotional experience of working on a project are much alike: At one point, she joined a conversation with the writers in attendance, and they all agreed that, whether with the publication of a book or the release of a clothing collection, the maker must be ready to receive feedback.

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Homemade chocolates and gingerbread cookies on the dessert table, which was decorated with Brussels sprouts stalks and a candelabrum, a family heirloom the sisters remember from childhood Christmases.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin
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A vintage candelabrum given to Wallenstam by her best friend. Lighting is an integral part of winter entertaining in Sweden, where, this time of year, the sun sets around 3 p.m.Credit...Rebecka Uhlin

An entertaining tip: If you’re thinking of hosting a Julbord, or at least incorporating its coursed buffet structure, Edberg advises, concentrate on the cold spread. “People are always super hungry when they arrive and feast on the first course, so by the time the meatballs arrive, they only have room to try one or two.” Put your energy into making the cold buffet “super nice,” he says — then pare your offerings back to just a few items for the warm buffet.