Opening

Lalyn

Olie Sangpetpairot joins a growing list of women having a significant impact in New York’s Thai kitchens. With other projects already established — notably When in Bangkok in Flushing, Queens, and Malii Gramercy, both with mega menus — she is now drawing on Thai home cooking, the dishes she remembers from childhood. The executive chef, Kitpoom Khanarat, known as Nicky, and the head chef, Supattra Thipdong, work to interpret her memories across their homeland with some very modern touches. Highlights on her typically abundant menu include pad Thai with grilled river prawns in a lacy egg netting, and scallop crudo with a coconut-galangal sorbet. Thai ingredients dominate the cocktails. The setting, with 130 seats, is elegant and subdued.

237 West 35th Street, 212-256-0256, lalynnyc.com.

Kelang Restoran

This is a family affair. Chris Low, who has Malaysian roots, owns it with the support of his mother and sister, but he’s the one in charge as the executive chef. Nicholas Say is his chef de cuisine in the kitchen. Mr. Low said his inspiration was the cross-cultural mix typical of Malaysia combined with a whiff of Little Italy and nostalgia for the 1960s — a lot to pile onto one plate. But he pulls it off with dishes like paratha with red lentils, stracciatella and sambal oil; a rendang made with oxtail, uncommon for Malaysia; stir-fried broad noodles with smoked clams and prawns; and taro gnocchi with smoked shiitakes. The 75-seat room has vintage touches; a liquor license is pending so, in the meantime, there are tea-based drinks and other mocktails.

715 Manhattan Avenue (Norman Avenue), Greenpoint, Brooklyn, 347-335-0626, kelangnyc.com.

Bar Manje

Nothing is likely to dissuade the daytime crowd lining up for pancakes at Good Enough to Eat on the Upper West Side. Evenings are a different matter, so the owner, Jeremy Wladis, lends out the space for dinner. It was the Greek Telios for a few years; now it’s this West Indian spot. Kingsley John, a native of St. Lucia, who started his career as a dishwasher in the employ of Mr. Wladis years ago, is interpreting the Caribbean with Trinidad’s taco of curried chickpeas in turmeric bread; Jamaican patties filled with goat, beef or vegetables; corn soup with dumplings; a Rastafarian-inspired vegan stew of root vegetables in coconut milk; and five-spice beef lo mein. Oxtail lasagna is a signature. Dessert comes from Good Enough to Eat: coconut cake and banana cream pie.

520 Columbus Avenue (85th Street), 212-456-0163, goodenoughtoeat.com/barmanje.

Dandelion

The hot spot entrepreneurs Eytan Sugarman and Will Makris, of Zero Bond and White Horse Tavern, have opened this cocktail bar. Keith Larry and John Garda are in charge of drinks, sequestered in various categories like Fun & Fresh, Slow Sippers and the Green Hour for absinthe and Chartreuse. Martinis have a place of their own, and include a dirty number made with vodka, not gin, and housemade brine. Franco Sampogna, an owner of Frevo, oversees the food, including raw shellfish, a lobster grilled cheese and a steak sandwich. The chandeliers are a playful take on dandelions within a green-accented room that has a 17-seat stretch of bar.

115 Christopher Street (Hudson Street), dandelionnewyork.com.

Branches

Spiga Ristorante & Cocktail Bar

The compact Upper West Side trattoria Spiga now has a roomier, fancier Upper East Side sibling. With its green leather banquettes and cream napery, it’s certain to be a date-night destination. It’s self-styled as a ristorante, not a trattoria, and that tells you something. The menu here is more focused on Rome than the one across town and offers classics like carciofi alla giudia, paccheri amatriciana, spaghetti cacio e pepe, chicken alla Romana with peppers and even a zuppa inglese — when was the last time you saw one of those? Mostly Italian wines start at $16 a glass and the bottle prices are modest ($55 to $97 on the menu; there’s also a pricier reserve list). Marco Proietti and his wife, Johanna, who own the one on the West Side, have taken on new partners, Debra and Louis Fasulo, for the East Side.

808 Lexington Avenue (62nd Street), 646-814-4510, spiganewyork.com.

Shoo Shoo

This Mediterranean restaurant with a Middle Eastern and Israeli approach is the uptown offshoot of a seven-year old NoLIta spot. It’s the work of a couple of Montauk surfers, Albert Bitton and Robby Ozer. The Upper East Side location has a moodier vibe with a fireplace and shelves holding wine bottles. The food takes some uncommon turns with a branzino schnitzel, grouper shawarma and a harissa burger.

1477 Second Avenue (77th Street), 212-470-4130, shooshoonyc.com.

Zoi Upper East Side

Glowing onyx veneers define this Middle Eastern spot, the uptown branch of the restaurant in the Life Hotel in Nomad, also heavily onyxed. The usual dips, hot and cold mezze, lamb chops, shashlik and baklava share the menu with Italy: spicy rigatoni, seafood cavatelli, burrata, shrimp scampi and panna cotta. Asia shows up in Wagyu tataki, and there’s even everyday grilled salmon with mashed potatoes.

1480 Second Avenue (77th Street), 646-718-3609, zoiues.com.

Shopping

Mother Root

Since 2018, the English have been rightfully enjoying this nonalcoholic ginger aperitif ingredient simply mixed with soda or tonic, and also in elaborate buzz-free cocktails. Bethan Higson, formerly with the wine and spirits division of LVMH, founded the company when she was looking for an aperitif while pregnant. It’s a simple mixture of ginger, apple cider vinegar, honey and chile that requires a good shaking before it’s poured. Restaurants like St. John and the Ledbury in London are serving it, and that’s endorsement enough. A tablespoon in tea, whether hot or iced, black, green or herbal, is outstanding; and don’t tell, but it’s worth keeping on the bar to jazz up an old-fashioned and other drinks. It’s $39.95 for 500 milliliters (16.9 ounces), shipping is included with two or more bottles.

motherroot.com.

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