Miso and Mushrooms and Leeks, Oh My
Good morning! Today we have for you:
Five-star miso mushroom and leek pasta
And circling back to miso, Ali Slagle’s spicy miso lentil soup
There was a freeze last week in the Northeast, which at my local farmers’ market in Brooklyn meant the official end of fall produce. Gone are the peppers, the cucumbers, the very last of the tomatoes. From now until May, it’s all about leeks and cabbages, mushrooms and kale and, happily, a never-ending supply of potatoes in all their starchy splendor.
All of this means it’s time for Yasmin Fahr’s five-star miso mushroom and leek pasta. Yasmin makes the most of just a few ingredients by taking care with each one. First, she caramelizes the leeks and mushrooms until they are golden brown (you can go as dark as you like), which adds a deeply savory flavor. Then, she whisks miso and Parmesan into some pasta cooking water to create a silky, cheesy sauce. A little sherry vinegar adds brightness right at the end, making for a warming, satisfying dish to put on repeat all winter long.
Featured Recipe
Miso Mushroom and Leek Pasta
More food for thought
Spicy miso lentil soup: Here’s another thing to do with miso: Take Ali Slagle’s suggestion to add a couple of spoonfuls to a pot of lentil soup. Fresh ginger and jalapeño give this heat and tang, while baby spinach turns the broth bright green, resulting in a protein-rich, vegetable-laden soup to warm the coldest nights.
Smashed chicken with corn and cabbage: Now what to do with all those cabbages? How about turning some into a crunchy slaw tossed with pickle ranch dressing? Then use that as a base for Ashley Lonsdale’s buttery, burnished chicken thighs. Ashley uses a technique that’s a brilliant riff on chicken under a brick — she tops the thighs with a weight while searing them in a blistering hot skillet. The meat emerges supremely juicy with potato-chip-crisp skin, and makes a brawny contrast to the supple, yogurt-spiked slaw.
Black pepper shrimp: Adapted from Nik Sharma’s grandmother Lucy Carvalho, who lived in Mumbai, this 20-minute delight is based on the Indo-Chinese dish black pepper chicken, but it uses seafood instead. To get the most flavor out of the crushed peppercorns, Ms. Carvalho infused them in hot oil before adding onion, garlic and sweet bell pepper. The shrimp go in last so they stay succulent and plump. Serve it over rice to soothe the peppery burn.
Breakfast tofu scramble: Here’s another Ali winner in which she sautés firm tofu with maple syrup, sage and hot sauce to evoke the sweet and herby flavors of breakfast sausage. You could round it out by adding some vegetables to the pan — almost anything that cooks quickly (greens, peas or cherry tomatoes) will find a happy home amid the soft nuggets of seared tofu. Or serve it with some toast for a crunchy counterpoint.
Chocolate silk pie: This classic, creamy dessert from Molly O’Neill has been a reader favorite since it was first published in 1995. The combination of a bittersweet cookie crust filled with light and fluffy chocolate mousse is both timeless and thoroughly irresistible.
That’s all for now. If you need any technical assistance, the folks at cookingcare@nytimes.com are there to help you out. And I’m at hellomelissa@nytimes.com if you want to say hi.
See you on Monday.