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The Stars Align for Wine in the East Village

The Stars Align for Wine in the East Village

The New York Times
2025/12/14
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Opening

Stars

The city is spilling over with wine bars, but anticipation has been running high for months for this one from Chase Sinzer and the chef Joshua Pinsky, who brought the American bistro, Claud, and the upstairs seafood counter, Penny, to the edge of Greenwich Village. The U-shaped zinc bar in a compact cedar-wrapped space provides 12 seats for glasses ($11 to $19) and bottles, from a deep list assembled by the wine director Julia Schwartz and Mr. Sinzer. To nibble alongside are deviled eggs sporting pomme soufflés stars, a cheese plate, shrimp toast, potato frico, and chicken liver mousse. The décor salutes the artist Frank Stella with one of his lithographs on display. (Opens Friday)

139 East 12th Street, stars-ny.com.

Café Mulberry

This all-day cafe sits on street level above the Mulberry, an underground cocktail lounge. A garden with lounge seating and a fireplace awaits another season. Baguettes, pastries and wine in addition to coffee can punctuate the day. (Tuesday)

240 Mulberry Street (Prince Street), cafemulberrynyc.com.

FOLK

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Credit...Sukhbir Channa

The chef Jayesh Kumar is opening this bar with a cross-cultural menu for both food and drink similar to what he serves at LORE, his Park Slope restaurant. At FOLK, which places emphasis on cocktails, there are mostly small plates. Biryani is turned into arancini, masala latkes come with caviar and chicken tikka masala shows up in a pot pie. There’s even a pu-pu platter of Southeast Asian snacks for sharing. (Thursday)

689 Sixth Avenue (20th Street), Park Slope, Brooklyn, 718-766-0800, folkbrooklyn.com.

Chesa

What’s winter in New York without cozy chalets perched somewhere? This year’s contribution come from the Peninsula New York where, through mid-March, four such temporary structures, heated, sit on a rooftop terrace. The menu, true to form, includes chocolate fondue, cheeses and Swiss wines.

700 Fifth Avenue (55th Street), peninsula.com.

Chaat Dog and Passerine

If pizza can accept Indian seasonings and toppings, why not hot dogs? Pervaiz Shallwani, who has written for The Times, created Chaat Dog, a mash-up of Desi and Chicago-style hot dog flavors, several years ago. He is digging deeper into Desi, collaborating with Chetan Shetty, the executive chef at Passerine, the elegant Indian restaurant in Gramercy. Their special menu will be served at Passerine through Dec. 20 in the drawing room and bar. Expect dishes like a Desi shrimp roll with roasted garlic achaar mayo; a Chaat Dog topped with Nihari, a Pakistani stew; and even Chaat-kes, Desi latkes.

36 East 20th Street, 212-680-4945, passerinenyc.com.

Branches

Eataly Caffè

The third of these spinoffs from the Eataly markets, for coffee and light food, including pastries, gelato and pizza, has come to the Upper East Side. There are counters for orders and table seating. (Wednesday)

1122 Lexington Avenue (78th Street), eataly.com/us_en/eataly-caffe.

Closed and Closing

Foul Witch

The East Village restaurant with an inventive menu from the Roberta’s gang, has closed after a two-year run. The owners plan to use the space as a private dining room for Roberta’s which now has several locations in Brooklyn and Manhattan.

Fette Sau

Joe Carroll announced on Instagram that on Dec. 21 he’ll close his Brooklyn barbecue restaurant, which has been in business since 2007. He will keep his Philadelphia offshoot open.

354 Metropolitan Avenue, Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 718-963-3404, fettesaubbq.com.

Looking Ahead

‘Sacred Food: The Chanukah Table & Beyond’

Sundown on Dec. 14 is the moment to light candles and start serving the latkes for the start of the eight-day Jewish holiday. A discussion about Hanukkah customs and observances practiced in various countries will be held on Thursday at 6 p.m. at the Museum at Eldridge Street. The food writer Rozanne Gold will lead the conversation with Beejhy Bahany, Leah Koenig and Jeffrey Yoskowitz, followed by a reception with noshes by Ms. Bahany’s Tsion Café in Harlem, with books to be signed by the participants.

$15 for adults, $10 for seniors and students, $8 for children 5 to 17; 12 Eldridge Street (Canal Street), eldridgestreet.org.

La Gelateria di Eataly by Patrizia Pasqualetti

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CreditCredit...Video by Yuvraj Khanna For The New York Times

Eataly has hired a dedicated gelato chef. Patrizia Pasqualetti studied with gelato experts to learn about the dairy, temperature, fruit, sugar and texture that give gelato its distinctive quality. She has started a series of hands-on hourlong gelato classes at La Gelateria di Eataly by Patrizia Pasqualetti, each dedicated to a particular flavor. Mandarin will be featured on Saturday at 6 p.m., with blood orange and tiramisù on Jan. 3, 4 and 10 at 2 p.m. and Jan. 6 at 6 p.m, all $55. Students will take home some gelato along with the know-how.

Gelato classes, 23 West 23rd Street (Fifth Avenue), 415-465-9690, eataly.com/us-en/classes-and-events/nyc-flatiron.

Ratings

La Liste

This is a French rating system for the digital age, compiled algorithmically across the globe based on various evaluations and platforms. The result is a ranking of 1,000 restaurants. Le Bernardin in New York shares the No. 1 slot in 2026, as it did last year, with nine other restaurants around the world, including SingleThread in Healdsburg, Calif. Jungsik and Daniel in New York were also ranked in the top 10, among 108 restaurants in the United States sprinkled throughout the 1,000.

laliste.com.

Michelin

Having recently gone beyond simply rating restaurants and listing hotels, adding “green” ratings for restaurants, and hotel evaluations, Michelin is now turning its attention to wine. But don’t expect the guide, due next year, to help you select a restaurant based on its wine profile, like Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. Michelin is plunging in to rate wine producers in particular regions, with one, two or three grapes, starting next year with Bordeaux and Burgundy (no surprise there). Will we see a cementing or a takedown of the legacy 1855 classification of Bordeaux? Stay tuned.

Shopping

Panettone

It’s panettone season and the twists on the classic Italian Christmas cake (or is it bread?), are rolling in. Silvia Mella, from Vicenza in Northern Italy, who founded and co-owns the Sōrate in Flatiron and SoHo, offers a version — green on the inside so an Italian might think pistachio — made with matcha, marzipan and dried fruit, $110 to serve 12. Pair it with scoops of matcha and chocolate ice cream for dessert. Panettone also suits breakfast, especially as interpreted as a citrusy glazed sourdough doughnut from Doughnut Plant, $5.95.

Sōrate, 30 East 18th Street, 103 Sullivan Street (Spring Street), sorate.co; Doughnut Plant, locations in Brooklyn, Queens, Manhattan, doughnutplant.com.

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