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The Tiger Lily Kitchen Team Goes Gluten-Free at KIMMI

The Tiger Lily Kitchen Team Goes Gluten-Free at KIMMI

The New York Times
2025/12/14
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Opening

KIMMI

Their Tiger Lily Kitchen was a victim of the demolition and redevelopment of an East Village block, but Michelle Morgan and John O’Brien, who have kept TLK going for takeout and delivery, now have this new spot on the edge of Chinatown. The menu they developed with their chef, Javier Medina, is broadly Asian-influenced and gluten-free. Menu highlights include grilled prawns, green garden vermicelli (the name says it all), roasted cauliflower, and pork belly skewers with green papaya chutney. (Opens Wednesday)

125 Canal Street (Chrystie Street), 929-373-8992, kimminyc.com.

Godunk

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Credit...Pratya Jankong

Having established her Thai cooking cred with the barbecue and hot pot hotspot Unglo at Lincoln Center, the chef Nate Limwong has turned her attention to street food across her native country. In a room done in beige tile and burgundy leather, she’s serving yen ta fo, a pink broth with seafood; dry pok pok noodles with roast pork and fish cakes; sticky fried rice with sweet sausage; and cloudlike crab and shrimp omelets. Cocktails, by Ryan Saputra, formerly of Angel’s Share, are named for romantic movies; a drink made with mango, lime, cilantro, gin and coconut milk represents “Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind.”

332 Bowery (Bond Street), 212-914-7892, godunknewyork.com.

Golden Ratio

What’s called the golden ratio in math and other disciplines is represented by approximately 1.618. This principle doesn’t figure in cooking or mixology, though for the latter, the ratio of 1-1-2, one sweet, one sour and two spirit is used. A pound cake is 1-1-1-1 (flour, sugar, butter, eggs). I could go on. Nonetheless, it’s supposedly expressed in this new highly conceptualized bar by balance. There are 16 alcoholic and 16 nonalcoholic drinks, most using homemade fruit- and vegetable-forward distillates, and small plates of food, like sunchoke profiteroles and crispy hake with achiote and aioli, designed to complement them. It’s the work of Redwood Hospitality, known for Cafe Mado and Place des Fêtes.

216 ½ Greene Avenue (Grand Avenue), Clinton Hill, Brooklyn, 929-784-8186, goldenrationyc.com.

Branches

Ladurée

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Credit...Janice Chung for The New York Times

The expansion of the Parisian macaron master in New York continues. An elaborate new boutique, the seventh for this region and the fourth for Manhattan, is opening in the Rockefeller Center passage leading from Fifth Avenue to (for now) the towering Christmas tree at the Rink. Though the collection of signature pastries and confections is what you’ll find elsewhere, here they come wrapped in unique patterns for a limited collection in collaboration with the French textile house Brunschwig & Fils, the partner for this location. The shop itself is similarly draped and papered. (Thursday)

Channel Gardens (50th Street), Rockefeller Center, laduree.com.

Asano

Like a hermit crab, Kate Kaneko moves her cafes into available restaurant locations during off-hours. Having successfully set up shop at Sandro’s on the Upper East Side this summer, her latest location is the Noortwyck where her coffees, teas and pastries are served Monday through Friday mornings. (Monday)

289 Bleecker Street (Seventh Avenue South), asanocafe.com.

Gymkhana at Aria Resort & Casino

FOMOs with a yen for biryani should head to Las Vegas. That’s where the first United States outpost of the esteemed Indian restaurant in London (with two Michelin stars) is lighting its tandoors, in advance of its arrival in New York early next year under the name Ambassadors Clubhouse. It’s also the first upscale Indian restaurant on the Strip. Though most Indian restaurants skip beef for religious reasons, it will be on the menu here, another first. The restaurant, by JKS Restaurants, has a vintage, clubby look.

ARIA Resort & Casino, 3730 Las Vegas Boulevard (West Harmon Avenue), Las Vegas, Nev., 702-590-9520, aria.mgmresorts.com.

Looking Ahead

“Night in Marrakesh” New York

Restaurants pull out all the stops to justify the lavish pricing for New Year’s Eve. But here’s a party that’s easier on the budget and might be more fun than the ball drop: At Shuka, the executive chef and partner, Ayesha Nurdjaja, plans a Middle-Eastern bash. From 5 until 7:30 p.m., the feast ($175 plus beverages, tax and gratuities) is served in addition to the regular menu; at 8:45 p.m., it’s feasting only with a first course spread of nearly a dozen small plates, including Moroccan bessara, chicory salad, and kibbeh; followed by chicken tagine, lamb shawarma, seafood kebabs, side dishes like couscous bejeweled with cranberries, and dessert pastries. Belly dancers, henna applications and more will be part of it.

Shuka, 38 MacDougal Street (Prince Street), 212-475-7500, shukanewyork.com.

Closing

Llama Inn

The original, and flagship of a notable group of restaurants inspired by the food of Peru, will close on Dec. 20. It had opened 10 years ago in Williamsburg and spawned a Greenwich Village outpost, Llama San, that was Nikkei and closed this summer. This leaves the owners, Erik Ramirez and Juan Correa, with the jazzy new Papa San in the Spiral building in Hudson Yards, billed as a Peruvian izakaya; and branches of Llama Inn in London and Madrid.

50 Withers Street (Meeker Avenue), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 929-533-2037, llamainnnyc.com.

Shopping

Persicus Caviar

Cranberries were on last month’s shopping list. Now, looking ahead to year’s end, you might think about caviar. There are about 10 sturgeon genus that yield all caviar on the market, all farm-raised; sevruga, osetra and beluga are the best known. This year Petrossian has added a couple of heretofore unavailable varieties to its lineup, including farm-raised Persicus, from the genus acipenser persicus, sometimes called Persian caviar, a denizen mainly of the southern Caspian Sea. In the wild it’s critically endangered and so is being cultivated in Madagascar. Its dark, smallish grains suggest sevruga but the flavor, with an edge of sweetness, and buttery texture, are its own. It’s about the least costly caviar splurge at Petrossian, starting at $79 for 30 grams (one ounce).

petrossian.com.

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